Aneto – fennel
Since my last visit about 10 years ago to Aneto in Penajoia, Baixo Corgo, Francisco Montenegro has expanded his winery and range of wines. He has been experimenting with different grape varieties, both Portuguese and International and sometimes, combinations of both with intriguing results. The Portuguese have always been master blenders believing in the power of the whole rather than focusing on single varietals, but Francisco takes this skill to the next level.
His Semillon has always made wonderful late harvest wines with the mists from the Douro providing the ideal conditions for botrytis and he has since paired this with Gouveio in his White Reserva wine giving luscious ripe flavours with a refreshing lift of acidity.
Another new combination is Alvarinho with Encruzado, a white grape normally associated with the Dão region which has similar flavours to cool climate chardonnay and which pairs surprisingly well with the aromatic Alvarinho.
Francisco also has Reisling grapes which he has paired with Arinto, a grape which is found all over Portugal. The end result is a great expression of Riesling in the German style but with a dry finish and only 9% alcohol.
Aneto Tinto
White grapes are planted around his winery in the Baixo Corgo and his red grapes are from Grade A vineyards upstream of Pinhäo in the Corgo Cima. The reds are made in the classic full-bodied Douro style from Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Roriz and Tinta Cão which are all found in the entry level red, the Reserva was more streamlined without Tinta Cão and the Grande Reserva had only two red grapes; Touriga Franca and Tinto Roriz. These wines feature the classic blackberry, coffee and spice flavours you want from a Douro wine.
Unusually for a relatively hot wine region Francisco makes a Pinot Noir. This was a revelation, pale, elegant and with those forest floor notes reminiscent of the Pinot Noirs found Otago New Zealand – I will certainly be buying some of those for my own cellar !
Pet Nat Rose
Last, but certainly not least, the Pet Nats which aficionados of sparkling wines and/or the natural wine movement will know and love. Francisco makes a white from the Arinto grapes with lively citrus and floral flavours and a Rosé from the Pinot Noir grapes with crisp red fruit flavours, both with gentle bubbles and a hint of breadiness as you would expect with these wines.
As well as having the winery Francisco and his daughter Inês run a wine bar Aneto and Table in a prime location in the renovated railway sidings in Regua. It is very convenient for those staying in Porto, simply catch the Linha do Douro train from São Bento or Campanha stations and the wine bar is 5 minutes from Regua train station. A relaxing day out from the hustle and bustle of Porto and a great way to sample Aneto’s wines paired with great regional dishes.
Sobredos Aneto Tinto – The Wine Line Aneto Pet Nat Branco – The Wine Line Aneto Pet Nat Rosé – The Wine Line
